Land Cruiser Build Sound Deadening, Towbar & Electrical
Sound Deadening, Towbar & Electrical
Sound Deadening:
So in this part of the Land Cruiser build we decided to have sound deadening installed.
Ok so the 76 is a bit noisy, if you look under the carpets and behind the doors there’s not much insulation going on here. Look I love hearing the V8, it’s just freakin awesome but the road noise on the highway is pretty bad. Especially when you put a few paddle boards on the roof and an Oz Tent.
So sound deadening….probably a waste of money but I thought what the heck if I get some improvement and can have a conversation with Wifey or make a call then that’d be great.
I could have done this myself but I got lazy and had the guys at Maroochy Car Sound do the hard work for me. They had it for a whole day and the next morning, so my time was better spent working. I had them do the roof, floor, inner and outer doors, wheel arches and walls. So a lot of sound deadening, they couldn’t cover every spot but enough.
Did it make a difference? Hell yeah. A huge difference, at least a 50% improvement in road noise. The doors feel more solid, especially when closing them. Lost their tinny sound when slamming them. I’ll post some videos of the doors closing before and after. I need to do a bit more highway driving and I’ll update this, but overall I’m really happy I had it done. It wasn’t cheap and I’d recommend doing it yourself if you are on a budget. Whatever the product costs you, double it for the labour to get an idea of the total cost if having someone install it.
Towbar & Electrical Wiring (Start):
Speedy Towbars started all the wiring today. Ran the cables from the battery to the rear for the second battery. Also installed the Redarc Towpro. Did an awesome job with removing the cigarette lighter socket (why the hell would you need that) and installing the Redarc Towpro controller in its place. Looks bloody good. We decided not to install the rear work lights on the Pioneer platform as the only option with the wiring is a hole through the roof or running it along the roof and beside the air intake. Will look terrible. So when I get the rear bar (which I have decided to do), we will have to make a bracket and install the lights above the spare wheel. At least then all the wiring can be done under the car and we are not drilling any bloody holes in the roof. Next week they will install the Uneek 4×4 rear bar if I can get one of Murchison’s in time, the towbar, Coupler Tec electronic rust proofing and the rest of the wiring. Don’t think the drawers will arrive in time but that is fine as they have got plenty of jobs to get done right now.
Had a look at all the Redarc inverter and BCDC charger and they look good. Jordan will get me an isolator switch as well that can be installed with the inverter.
So we have had a bit more progress with all the electrical work however we had delays getting the rear bar so that has caused a few things to stall. Most of the wiring has been run however still waiting on my drawers so we can get the second battery, BCDC and inverter all connected up. Switches have all been installed up front in the existing switch panel. At the moment we have AUX lights and driving lights. AUX lights will be to turn on the two rear work lights that we can use as a reverse light and setup light if setting up camp in the dark. Driving lights will be for the spotties up front. Decided to just go with 9 inch Kings LED driving lights, really cheap and work well enough. Had these on the Wrangler with no issues. They just fit perfectly in the ARB bull bar. About 10mm gap up top and bottom. The Couplertec 6 pad electronic rust proofing system has also been all wired up as well. Next couple of weeks should see some real progress on the build.
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More to come……
The thoughts of Peter.
