Five Days on the Madigan Line Crossing the Simpson Desert – Part 2
In this adventure diary story, we share our five days on the Madigan Line crossing the Simpson Desert. We will discuss daily kilometres, track conditions, Madigan camps, and a whole lot more. This is not a guide on everything you need to know about the Madigan Line, but a day-to-day recount of our five days crossing the Simpson Desert on this iconic bucket list track.
Please be aware that that this is an extremely long story so you will need to give yourself a good 15-20 minutes to read it. As a result, I have split this in two parts for those that do not have much time. It is rather difficult trying to condense five days on the Madigan Line crossing the Simpson Desert when there is so much to share. Hopefully you enjoy it, and if you have any feedback, let us know at the bottom of this story.
In part two, we cover days three to five, Madigan camps 11 to 21, then Birdsville. If you have not read part one of ‘Five Days on the Madigan Line Crossing the Simpson Desert’, read it here first.
Madigan Line, Simpson Desert
Day 3: Camp 11 to Camp 16
Total Distance Day 3: 89kms
Total Drive Time: 8 ½ hours
I woke up just before 6am on day three. It was a cold morning, but the early morning light was sensational. The reds and purples with the stars still shining bright was a sight to see. Orion was in the east and could be seen perfectly before the sun came up.
I had been having problems with the take to dealer light coming on most mornings when I started the 76 Series. It was a bit of a concern, but nothing seemed to be wrong. I then remembered that I had issues with the throttle controller when I first fitted it a few years ago bringing up the same warning light. Once this was unplugged the light disappeared and did not raise its head again the rest of the trip. After our Just Autos dyno tune there is no real need for the throttle controller. I only ever used it on trips like this where it is extremely bumpy. By setting the throttle controller to eco mode, it requires a lot of pressure on the throttle to do anything. This does help with fuel economy as your foot constantly bumps the accelerator pedal. With this disconnected, I just needed to be more conscious of what my foot was doing.
We left camp at 9am and hoped for an improved track. The first half an hour or so was promising, we were covering more distance than we had the previous day. But not long after the track was back to its rough self, and our speeds slowed significantly. After an hour leaving camp, we came across lots of camel tracks, I was getting hopeful that I might finally see a camel in the desert. We also came across cat and dingo spore once again. But seeing these two animals was going to be difficult.
The sand dunes were large at the start of our drive but soon got smaller and smaller. The track also started to wind between the dunes. Camp 12 was found an hour and forty-five minutes after leaving camp. Another visitor logbook has been placed at camp 12, so we obviously signed it. Just after midday we came onto camp 13. Another camp in the open with little around it. We had not seen a tree for some time now, just plenty of spinifex. The vegetation was still dense but far different to the day before. We searched for somewhere to have lunch, but finally just stopped on the track as we could not find anywhere to pull over. At 3pm we found camp 14. Unfortunately, someone had vandalised the camp marker sign which became common for a few more Madigan camps to come. I do not want to waste much time on people like this, so I will let you imagine the thoughts I have for such individuals.
Less than half an hour later we came to the Hay River Track and camp 15. To this point we had been travelling east on the Madigan Line. At Madigan camp 15 we turned south and drove down the Hay River Track parallel to the Queensland border. We were still in the Northern Territory. According to Cecil Madigan’s journal, camp 15 was their best camp of the trip mainly due to the change in landscape from the previous few camps. Along the Hay River Track there are an abundance of box trees which is a stark contrast to the desert landscape we had just been through. While we stopped at camp 15, my dad went for a walk and came upon another toilet paper disaster. I know I have had a whinge about this earlier, but please read our story on how to use the toilet in the bush if you are unsure.
As we were now travelling south between the sand dunes, our pace picked up, it was much faster going. We thought we might camp beside the Hay River, but it was still too early so we pushed on to camp 16, just over an hour from camp 15. Camp 16 on the Hay River Track is where you will find the Madigan Blaze Tree. When Cecil Madigan camped here back in 1939, he blazed or carved his initial and the year ‘M39’. At the time of doing this, Cecil Madigan stated that he would be very interested in knowing who next sees this tree. Little did he know that many a traveller in the decades to come would pass through and see this same tree. Unfortunately, the carving is no longer visible with the growth of the tree over the years. But the tree has been fenced off to preserve this piece of exploration history. There is another visitor logbook if you wish to date and sign your name, I of course did.
Madigan Camp 16 is where the Madigan Line continues east toward the Queensland border off the Hay River Track. It was almost 5pm so we were all keen to find a decent camp spot and open a nice cold beer. We went east and continued our bumpy drive over the dunes. Approximately 30 minutes later we found another great camp spot just below a dune and setup camp. Everyone was well into their camp setup routine by now, all swags and awnings were setup in a matter of minutes. I continued my daily tradition of cracking open my first cold beer and climbing up the dune to watch the sunset. A creature of habit I know, but it never gets old sitting on top of a sand dune watching another spectacular Simpson Desert sunset. This day the sunset was one of the best we had, so I cherished every moment of it.
I was the cook again, so once the sun had set, I scurried down the dune and got to work. This recipe I will share soon as it was said to be the best one of the trip. It has been aptly named, Desert Chilli. A simple meal comprising beef mince, onions, bacon, chilli beans, a few spices, and topped off with fried egg. A serious protein hit that everyone needed after our biggest day of driving even though we only covered 89kms.
Day 4: Camp 16 to Camp 21
Total Distance Day 4: 128kms
Total Drive Time: 8 hours
Day four was the coldest morning so far along the Madigan Line, a cool 2 degrees. There was a bit of dew around and all our gear was slightly damp, so we took our time to get moving making sure everything dried out. We left camp a bit before 9am and headed east towards Queensland.
The track continued to be rough but as we got closer to Queensland it started to improve. We saw plenty of camel tracks again, but still no luck actually seeing one. How hard can it be? They are huge creatures. I wondered if this was going to be another Simpson Desert adventure where my camel tally remained at zero. Just over an hour from camp we found camp 17. Camp 17 is close to the Queensland border and was probably the best Madigan camp we had seen so far. This camp is scattered with gidgee trees, completely different to the camps we had been through the day before. If arriving at a good time, camp 17 would be a fantastic spot for a night’s camp.
Not long after leaving camp 17 we crossed the Queensland border and entered Munga-Thirri National Park. This is the National Park section of the Simpson Desert on the Queensland side. As we crossed the border we started to travel in a south easterly direction. Our progress was a lot faster as we travelled between dunes for a period, then over a dune, before travelling between the dunes once again. The landscape had completely changed from the day before. There was an abundance of trees and wildflowers. The wildflowers provided a beautiful change in colours from the reds and greens, with lots of yellows and purples. Not only were the dunes getting bigger, but the vegetation also seemed far bigger than before.
A couple hours after leaving camp 17 we found camp 18. As it was still a little early for lunch, we continued on our journey and found a nice spot in amongst the trees between camps 18 and 19. After lunch, we reached camp 19 not long after 2.30pm. A few sand dunes later and we were out of Munga-Thirri National Park and into Adria Downs Station. Another private station that we obtained permission to travel through. As we entered Adria Downs Station, we saw our first and only salt clay pan of the trip. I do love the salt pans, with their contrasting bright white against the reds and greens of the desert. The track through the clay pan was soft, thankfully not too soft as it would have been a muddy mess. We stayed on the track through the clay plan. If you are travelling through the Simpson Desert, please do the same. There is no need to do donuts through the middle of these beautiful clay pans.
Then a miracle occurred. We saw our first camel!
It was a big camel, and I was surprised at how they can be so difficult to see being so large. But once it moved, I realised why we never see them. They are ridiculously fast. Faster than I expected. I was also amazed at how they stay on the track. When we continued along the track and came over another dune, we could see the camel jogging along the track well ahead of us. When we came over the next dune, it was even further ahead but still on the track. We were driving at around 15-20km/h and it was moving much faster than us. Eventually the camel decided that it had enough of being followed and went north in between the dunes. Within a minute it was gone.
Not long after seeing the camel, the track improved significantly, probably due to the station as there was now plenty of cattle about. I even found fourth gear, I almost forgot where it was. We then found Madigan camp 20, a lovely looking camp right beside Kuddaree Waterhole. This would be a good camp, but it was still a little early and the flies were bad. It was just after 4pm so we continued south towards camp 21. The track was much faster going but we had to be cautious with all the water about. There was an abundance of trees, and the birdlife was fantastic. An hour or so later we found camp 21. It was decided this would be our last camp along the Madigan Line in the Simpson Desert.
My evening ritual continued but I was joined by the rest of our party for a beer on top of the small dune above our camp. Everyone slapped their cans together and thanked one another for an awesome trip. I took in every moment of this final evening in the desert, sad that it was all about to end, but at the same time jubilant to have almost completed the Madigan Line.
The final evening required something special so, I decided I would make the best damper I had ever created. Even if it was a disaster, our spirits were so high I don’t think anyone would have noticed. But it was a ripper damper!
Day 5: Camp 21 to Birdsville
Total Distance Day 5: 123kms
Total Drive Time: 6 hours
I woke up before the sunrise. It was a chilly morning but not as cold as the day before. The sunrise was beautiful again today. The desert was making sure we returned once again.
We were only 90kms from Big Red and 120kms from our destination, a beer and feed at the Birdsville Hotel. We left camp 21 not long after 8am and drove south toward Annandale Homestead Ruins, only 20 minutes away sitting beside Eyre Creek.
Annandale Homestead was abandoned back in 1939 when Cecil Madigan made his journey across the Simpson Desert. He refers to the homestead in his journal and how it was still filled with furniture, ledgers, books, and even dynamite. We searched for the dynamite but came up empty handed. He wondered how people survived in such a place, as I did while I walked around. There is little left of Annandale Homestead other than a few walls of one building, the chimney of the main homestead, a few pieces of machinery, and the fencing posts of the cattle yards. I am always amazed that the chimney seems to be the last thing standing whenever you come across ruins in the outback. I am sure there is a reason why, maybe someone will let me know below this story.
Our journey then continued south beside Eyre Creek towards the QAA Line. Unfortunately, we missed the track to camp 22 and continued along the track beside Eyre Creek. It was a shame to miss this camp, but I will make sure I see it next time. Any excuse to return. Camps 23 and 24 are not accessible. The track south was easy going with the odd washout. We made good time and reached the QAA Line just under two hours after leaving Annandale Ruins. As we got closer to the QAA Line, we started to hear plenty of radio chatter. After not hearing another soul for days, it was a bit of a shock to hear someone else on Channel 10.
We then headed east on the QAA Line, across Eyre Creek towards Big Red and Birdsville. During the 20kms or so to Big Red, we passed at least 30 vehicles. From no traffic in 5 days, it was a surprise to be around so many other vehicles. The feeling of isolation withered away and the realisation that the adventure is pretty much over hit me hard.
One final obstacle lay in our path to having that cold beer at the Birdsville Hotel, Big Red. We came up on top of Nemesis and there it was in all its big glory. My excitement returned as I knew we were about to have a little fun. Our fuel consumption had been far better than expected, so we had plenty of fuel for a few runs up the biggest sand dune in the Simpson Desert. I engaged third gear low range and took my first run up Big Red, a success of course. I then let my dad jump in the driver’s seat and let him have a go. Much to his surprise he succeeded first go. After a bit more fun up and down Big Red, we aired our tyres back up and headed on to Birdsville.
Before our beer at the Birdsville Hotel, we stopped and got rid of all our rubbish at the local dump. Never leave your rubbish in the bush. Our next stop was to refuel as I was keen to see how much fuel we all used for the trip. I knew we did far better than I expected. To read our fuel consumption on the Madigan Line, read our story here. After we filled up, we setup camp in the bush camping section beside the caravan park, had a well-deserved hot shower, and then off to the Birdsville Hotel for a nice cold beer and pub feed. The perfect way to finish off a Simpson Desert adventure.
What an Adventure
That covers Madigan camps 11 to Birdsville, during our Simpson Desert crossing along the Madigan Line.
If you are interested in reading Cecil Madigan’s journal of his epic Simpson Desert crossing back in 1939, ‘Crossing the Dead Heat’, this is where we purchased our reprinted copy. I highly recommend purchasing a copy and reading this if you are planning on doing the Madigan Line to cross the Simpson Desert.
I hope you enjoyed reading our epic five days on the Madigan Line crossing the Simpson Desert. If you want to read any of our other Simpson Desert and Outback Australia stories, you can find them all here. To read about our fuel consumption during this trip, you can our story here.
This was not intended to be a guide on crossing the Simpson on the Madigan Line, more a day to day recount of what we saw, kilometers travelled, and a few other things. If we ever post a guide on the Madigan Line, explaining permits and so on, you will find it all here.
One last note. I would like to say that the highlight of this trip was being able to do this with my dad, Stan. Being able to share this adventure with him was very special. If you still have the opportunity to do the same, make the time and do something similar. Don’t put it off, do it! Thanks for coming on the journey dad, I look forward to many more…
Thanks for reading. If you want to keep up to date on future stories, join the 4WD Adventurer Community here.
The thoughts of Peter
26/04/2023 @ 8:50 PM
Thank you Peter for this amazingly detailed account of a bucket-list trip. Awesome photography too which really makes the story jump off the page. I’m curious to know in which month you travelled? Apologies if you’ve already included it in the text and I’ve missed it. I’m planning to do the trip in late June ’23 and your notes will be the ‘Lonely Planet’ of the desert!
Thanks& Regards
Boestey
27/04/2023 @ 9:22 AM
G’day Boestey,
Thanks for the message and feedback, really appreciate it.
Most definitely a bucket list adventure. Absolutely loved this trip, so far the best of our desert crossings. We travelled at the start of August, so there had been many people through before us. The caretaker had left for the season at Old Andado Station Homestead, so it was really quiet there when we passed through. There will likely be more people around in June/July, but as you are travelling one way you will probably only bump into people when they are stopped for lunch or camp.
If you have any questions about the trip, feel free to contact us.
Cheers,
Peter
02/10/2022 @ 8:11 PM
Thanks Peter for your great travel-log on the Madigan Line. Really enjoyed it, thanks. I also like very much your attitude towards respecting the bush and the environment and glad you printed about the ravages of toilet paper, one of my biggest pet hates. Thanks.
I’ve joined your 4WD Adventure community, looking to find like minded adventurers while I plan my trips away. The Madigan Line and Hay River Tracks are the top of my list.
Take care, stay safe and thank you.
Kevin Waters-Marsh (Swampy)
04/10/2022 @ 10:57 AM
G’day Swampy,
Thank you so much for your feedback mate, awesome to know that someone out there has found this enjoyable and helpful. And thanks for joining the community, I hope you find our future stories useful.
Hopefully sharing the toilet paper mess and how one should actually use the toilet will help educate others that might not be fully aware. It will take some time, but I really hope we get there. Sharing this stuff on social media, it was quite interesting the responses I have got from some people that just did not know the best way, which was surprising to me. But glad we have got the message out there for change.
I highly recommend the Madigan, it has been by far the best part of the Simpson Desert that I have seen. Although, I will take any time in the desert over a day of work that is for sure. When I do the Madigan again, I will definitely drive the Hay River Track south to the end and then back track to complete the Madigan. I was just a little unsure on fuel and distances this last trip, plus others travelling with us had to get back by a particular day which did limit us for time. Next trip I will also take the track north from Camp 11 which is the actual route Cecil Madigan took, the current track bypasses this but it is still accessible.
If you ever have any questions feel free to send us an email or drop a comment below our posts.
Thanks mate.
Cheers,
Peter