Five Days on the Madigan Line Crossing the Simpson Desert – Part 1
In this adventure diary story, we share our five days on the Madigan Line crossing the Simpson Desert. We will discuss daily kilometres, track conditions, Madigan camps, and a whole lot more. This is not a guide on everything you need to know about the Madigan Line, but a day-to-day recount of our five days crossing the Simpson Desert on this iconic bucket list track.
Please be aware that that this is an extremely long story so you will need to give yourself a good 15-20 minutes to read it. As a result, I have split this in two parts for those that do not have much time. It is rather difficult trying to condense five days on the Madigan Line crossing the Simpson Desert when there is so much to share. Hopefully you enjoy it, and if you have any feedback, let us know at the bottom of this story.
In part one, we cover days one to two, Old Andado Station, then Madigan camps 1 to 11.
Finke to Old Andado Station
Total Distance: 115kms
Total Drive Time: 2 hours
The Madigan Line starts at Old Andado Station Homestead. This is where Cecil Madigan spent approximately 7 days before they started their journey into the Simpson Desert.
Finke was our final fuel stop before we were to get to Birdsville, approximately 700kms away. The road from Finke to Old Andado was mostly in good condition, with the odd washout and pothole in places. After a good 60kms or so, we started to see signs of the desert as we drove over beautiful dunes, plenty of red colours, and desert vegetation. Driving over these dunes was a breeze due to the nice compact gravel road used by the local station. The easiest bit of sand dune driving we were to do for the next five days. The drive was a stunning change from where we had been driving earlier in the day. As we drove through Andado Station (permission required), there were several closed gates as it is a cattle station, so we left the gates as we found them. The road was well sign posted to Old Andado, so we followed these in conjunction with our ExplorOz Traveller mapping app.
As we got closer to Old Andado Station, the sun was quickly setting behind us, as the dunes were getting larger. The sand dunes looked spectacular in the light of the setting sun. We then came over a big sand dune to see Old Andado Station Homestead highlighted by the large windmill in the beautiful evening light. It was 6pm and my energy lifted, after a big day of driving from the Painted Desert in South Australia, to finally be at the start of Cecil Madigan’s epic Simpson Desert adventure. A trip I had been dreaming about doing ever since I had a taste of the Simpson Desert. That feeling of jubilation, knowing what lay ahead of us over the next five days.
We did not have much of a chance to look around Old Andado Homestead, so we left this for the morning. Instead, everyone setup camp while I got dinner going, a slow cooked camp oven chicken casserole. A meal I cook regularly as it is super tasty and extremely easy. Once the meal was prepped and thrown onto some hot coals, I went to find the hot showers which are available at Old Andado Homestead. Just make sure you remember to pay your $10 camping fee at the honesty box if no one is around.
It was a warm night, much warmer than we had experienced during the six days that we had been on the road. Usually dressed in thermals and pants, tonight I was in shorts and a t-shirt. After a couple of hours, the chicken casserole was done. We all had a good feed with everyone choosing to go straight to bed not long after due to the big day we had on the road. Spirits were high knowing the real adventure began in the morning. Bring on the Madigan!
Madigan Line, Simpson Desert
Day 1: Old Andado Station to Camp 6
Old Andado Station to Camp 1: 69kms
Camp 1 to Camp 6: 100kms
Total Distance Day 1: 169kms
Total Drive Time: 7 ½ hours
I woke up early, just after 5.30am, when I heard rain drops on my Aussie Outback Supplies swag. Not wanting to pack up a wet swag, I quickly got up and rolled it away. Shortly after, a big downpour hit us, rain in the desert again. Every trip I have done to the Simpson Desert has come with rain.
With all our gear packed away or under the awning, we had coffee and breakfast. Coffee hit complete, we then explored Old Andado Homestead. The old homestead has been kept as it was all those years ago, with all the same furniture, pictures, books, and everything you can imagine. It was extremely cool to see the homestead as it was, situated in between two large dunes, as remote as you can get. Well done to those that have preserved such an important bit of Outback Australian history. We even found an old FJ Cruiser parked out back. All it probably needs an oil change and a new battery. Once we had taken a good look around and the rain had subsided, we packed up the awning, loaded the roof rack, and erected my sand flag. We then headed out to find the start of the Madigan Line, stopping on our way out to pay our respects at Molly’s grave.
The track from the conservation area to Madigan camp 1 was extremely corrugated and muddy in the wet. Our tyre pressures were around 28PSI at this stage, so we dropped them further due to the conditions. Based on the track so far it was obvious that many driving through before us were running far too high tyre pressures.
We found camp 1 approximately 2 hours and 69kms from Old Andado homestead nestled below a dune amongst a few trees. A little walk up the dune provided us a fantastic view of the landscape. After enjoying the fact that we had our first Madigan camp in the Simpson Desert, we headed off as the rain decided to fall once again. The landscape and road changed significantly to a rocky terrain with no sign of sand dunes. After stopping at one of the higher points to take in the view of the surrounding area, we then continued our journey. The rocks subsided and the sand appeared. The dunes were small but covered in vegetation. A sign of the good rains the outback has experienced over the last few years.
We found a nice spot to have lunch just off the track not long after 12.30pm. The usual cheese, salami and lettuce wraps were on the menu. A creature of habit. Walking around my 76 Series Land Cruiser I then noticed that the Uneek 4×4 rear bar had decided that the two spare wheels were just too much for it to handle. I could not expect much from such a poorly designed and tested product (you can read all about it here). After finding that the rear bar had sagged due to the weight of the tyres, we removed all the spares, loosened the bolts securing the rear bar to the chassis, and everyone pushed to try and get the rear bar back in the right place. After tightening the three bolts on each side, the rear bar was back to being level again. Although this only lasted about three bumps before it sagged once again. It was decided that there was nothing more that could be done, so we just left it as it was, a problem for another day.
Camps 2 to 4 are not accessible, and we chose to bypass camp 5 and continued along the track to camp 6. We found camp 6 just before 4pm. This Madigan camp was fully exposed out in the open, not the best desert camp I had seen, so we continued to find a better spot for our first night in the desert. An hour later, 7kms past camp 6, we found a good spot to setup camp for the night just below a small sand dune. Fifteen minutes later camp was all setup, so I cracked open my first beer on the Madigan Line and walked up the closest dune to watch my first Simpson Desert sunset for the year. Of course, it did not disappoint – the Simpson Desert never disappoints. The sun set over the dunes in the distance not long after 6pm, with the real sky show starting half an hour later.
By 7pm I was cooking steaks over hot coals, a simple but delicious dinner. An hour later a storm hit us for a solid 10-minute downpour. Lots of rain, thunder, and lightning. A spectacular show it was. Although the after effects where not so spectacular, as a muddy mess was left behind. Twenty minutes later, another storm hit us. Thankfully this also only lasted 10-minutes. As my dad (Stan) was provided preference to set his swag up under my awning, my new Australian made swag by Aussie Outback Supplies had a real good test of the weather. Thankfully everything was nice and dry, although a little muddy, I was still going to have a good dry night’s sleep. The lightning show in the South was spectacular.
Not long after the storm we all decided to call it a night and get a good sleep for the day ahead of us.
Day 2: Camp 6 to Camp 11
Total Distance Day 2: 79kms
Total Drive Time: 7 ½ hours
After the rains the night before, we had a slow start to our second day on the Madigan Line waiting for our gear to dry out. So, we decided on a cooked breakfast while our swags and awnings had some much needed sunshine.
I went off into the bush to do my morning business and was absolutely disgusted by what I came across in many different areas. The amount of toilet paper lying around was an utter disgrace. In between two dunes with the most stunning desert scenery, the desert was littered with toilet paper. I would have thought that people doing such a bucket list adventure would know how to use the toilet in the bush but, it appears not. If you are reading this story and are a little unsure of how to use the toilet in the bush, please take a few minutes and read our post here explaining what you should do. Please, pretty please, respect our country and leave the bush pristine and beautiful, the way it should be.
At 9.30am we left camp and headed out once again on the Madigan Line to find camp 7. As we travelled further east the dunes got bigger and bigger. This is one thing you will notice when travelling in the Simpson Desert, no matter what track you are on. The dunes always get bigger the further east you travel.
Madigan camp 7 was found just over an hour after we left camp. Another camp in the open with little around it other than sand and spinifex. The track had been extremely rough to this point, and it got no better for the next few days. It was slow going with many wombat holes down the eastern sides of the dunes and offset holes in between and up the dunes. This led to an uncomfortable and slow-going ride as we were rocked side to side all day long. Normal holes are not too bad, but you do get bored quite quickly of offset holes that throw you from side to side. We were lucky if we got up to 20km/h, with most of the day spent driving between 10km/h and 15km/h. However, I would not change a thing, as the desert is usually rough and slow going. So, we just took our time and enjoyed the beauty that the desert had on offer.
If you are driving in the desert, please drop your tyre pressures, especially if you are towing a trailer. There is no need to drive fast either. Take your time and drive to the conditions, you will have a far more enjoyable trip, with less risk of breaking something.
The rain the night before had removed almost all evidence of the tracks before us. It was quite refreshing to feel like there was no one else around. Although, we did find out later at camp 11, that there was another party towing a trailer approximately 24 hours ahead of us. Thanks to the rain, we were able to spot many different animal tracks including what looked to be a feral cat (due to the spore having a pad in the middle), dingoes, and many camels. Although, we did not see any of these creatures, only evidence that they had been there not long before these three noisy V8’s came through. However, we did see plenty of birdlife, thanks to all the rains and spectacular vegetation in the desert.
We came onto Madigan camp 8 not long after midday, just under two hours since camp 7. Camp 8 sits just below a steep dune which we struggled to walk up to take in the view. We took our time taking in the scenery, not just to catch our breath. It is rather refreshing standing on top of a sand dune and seeing nothing but yourselves and the great expanse of the desert. An amazing feeling of being isolated and so far from civilization. One of the main reasons I continue to return to the Simpson Desert.
Forty minutes or so later we found a fantastic spot in amongst the gidgee trees to have lunch. How the landscape can change so drastically between sand dunes is amazing. From seeing nothing but spinifex, to sections filled with wildflowers, and others with acacias. The changing landscape between sand dunes, gave us something to wonder, what will be over that next dune.
Camp 9 was like many of the others, in a large open area, not really our sort of campsite. Plenty would have changed over the last 80 plus years which is obvious from Madigan’s description of many of the campsites.
It was 3pm when we arrived at camp 9, by 4.40pm we were at camp 10, with camp 11 only two dunes further. Camps 10 and 11 have a very interesting story which is detailed in Cecil Madigan’s journal ‘Crossing the Dead Heart’. A sign has been erected at camp 11 detailing the story. The short of it is, by the time Cecil Madigan and his party arrived at camp 10, water supplies were dwindling, and their camels had not had feed for many days. The travel party was frustrated, and spirits were low. Cecil Madigan was worried as they had not even crossed half the desert and the camels were not in a good way. The following day they crossed two dunes and came upon claypans with water surrounded by Munyeroo. Munyeroo was good feed for camels. The party’s spirits completely changed, and they setup camp at camp 11. Madigan and his party had their first baths in over a fortnight and supposedly their best feed yet.
At camp 11 there is a visitors’ book which we opened, dated, and signed. This is how we determined that there was a party approximately 24 hours ahead of us towing a trailer. Camp 11 was not the ideal camp for us, so we continued for another twenty minutes or so until we found a nice flat campsite under a dune. As I did every evening, I climbed up the closest dune with a nice cold beer and watched the sunset.
After taking in another stunning sunset, I cooked up a Massaman beef curry in the camp oven. The curry came out a treat, although it probably took a little longer than most expected, but good camp oven food requires some time. The night was a lot colder than the two previous nights without any cloud cover. At least there would be no more rain.
That covers Old Andado Homestead, and Madigan camps 1 to 11, during our Simpson Desert crossing along the Madigan Line.
If you are interested in reading Cecil Madigan’s journal of his epic Simpson Desert crossing back in 1939, ‘Crossing the Dead Heat’, this is where we purchased our reprinted copy. I highly recommend purchasing a copy and reading this if you are planning on doing the Madigan Line to cross the Simpson Desert.
Read part two of our five days on the Madigan Line crossing the Simpson Desert here.
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The thoughts of Peter
