Cordillo Downs Road the Not So Shortcut to Birdsville and Innamincka
On our most recent adventure in the Outback, we decided to drive the infamous Cordillo Downs Road to get to Innamincka from Birdsville. The title of this post should tell you a lot about the “not so shortcut” between Birdsville and Innamincka.
Cordillo Downs Road goes through the Sturt Stony Desert. The countryside is a vast expanse of gibber rock with the odd lonesome sand dune standing in the horizon. With the road being predominantly gibber rock this makes for an extremely uncomfortable and bumpy ride. Road conditions are generally rough, slow going, and will depend on the time of year if there have been any significant rains. In this post we give you a good idea on the road conditions, what there is to see along the way, how long it takes, and other potential routes between Innamincka and Birdsville.
Routes Between Innamincka and Birdsville
When visiting either Birdsville or Innamincka, after travelling so far you will usually want to visit both locations as there are an abundance of things to see and do. Both areas are beautiful parts of Outback Australia filled with so much history. There are three main routes that connect Birdsville and Innamincka that can be done in a day or two. They are Walkers Crossing, Cordillo Downs Road, and via Arrabury.
The shortest route is approximately 365kms via Walkers Crossing however this road is regularly closed. The route along Cordillo Downs Road is approximately 420kms and will take one full day to complete however most recommendations are to allow for two days – especially if towing a large caravan. When we planned our trip, we allowed for two days and expected to setup camp somewhere after Cordillo Downs Woolshed. The route via Arrabury is the longest at 500kms. However, going via Arrabury will be faster due to the road conditions, with the trip taking just over 6 hours without stopping. If you want to stop and see Haddon Corner, then the route through Arrabury is your best option. We decided on Cordillo Downs Road as we wanted to see the Cadelga Homestead Ruins as well as the historical Cordillo Downs Woolshed.
Leaving from Birdsville
We had arrived in Birdsville the day before after another Simpson Desert adventure to pick up our trailer DOT373 that we stored at the Birdsville Caravan Park for 5 days. In the afternoon we did a few loads of washing, repacked our trailer, had a well-deserved shower and then a good feed at the Birdsville Hotel. The following day we woke early to pack our camper trailer. After a quick stop at the Birdsville Bakery for a great coffee and pie, we left Birdsville for Innamincka.
Detour to the Dreamtime Serpent
The journey begins along the Birdsville Developmental Road heading East towards Betoota and Windorah. This leg of the trip is approximately 120kms to the turn off to Cordillo Downs Road. If you have not driven along the Birdsville Developmental Road before and you have time up your sleeve, we would recommend you add a short detour and continue past the Cordillo Downs Road turn off to view the Dreamtime Serpent. This is a massive and magnificent piece of Aboriginal artwork that is worth a visit. The Dreamtime Serpent is depicted on the side of a hill created out of different types of gravel and gibber rock that are found throughout the local area. It was created on Mithika Country in September and October in 2012.
Continue the Detour to the Betoota Hotel
After enjoying the Dreamtime Serpent, you might as well drive another 10kms to visit the Betoota Hotel. An iconic Outback pub that was brought back to life, after being abandoned for 25 years, by owner and publican Robbo who is a true-blue Aussie legend. We pulled in here on our way into Birdsville first thing in the morning and had a massive breakfast which was completely unplanned but an absolute treat. Robbo sat with us and had a great yarn while we ate his perfectly cooked breakfast. Robbo’s bubble and squeak was a ripper as well. Depending on how your trip is planned you must pull in to the Betoota Hotel, if not to camp for the night, to say g’day to Robbo.
Crossing the South Australia Queensland Border
We did digress so back to Cordillo Downs Road. Cordillo Downs Road is well sign posted off the Birdsville Developmental Road. From the turn off it is only 26kms to the South Australia border and then another 15kms to the Cadelga Ruins. If Cordillo Downs Road is closed due to flooding, it will usually be signed posted as closed at this turn off. It is always a good idea when driving from Birdsville or Innamincka to check whether the road is open or closed. From the South Australia border it is another 100kms to Cordillo Station Woolshed. The road to the South Australia border is just an easy-going gravel road like the Birdsville Developmental Road. Once you cross the South Australia Queensland border at the signpost and cattle grid, the road quickly deteriorates. From a decent wide road to a narrow bumpy gibber rock track, heavily corrugated with plenty of washouts. Driving speed will reduce significantly to around 50 to 60km/h or slower. Any faster and you will be taking significant risks to your vehicle, gear, and yourself.
Cadelga Ruins
After an extremely slow and bumpy 15km drive we came upon the Cadelga Ruins. Cadelga homestead was built back in 1877 and continued to be in use until the 1950’s. When the buildings were no longer needed the Cadelga homestead slowly deteriorated into the ruins you can now see.
Constructed of rock, on the creek side we could envisage the day-to-day life of the people who had lived there. There was a bit of a sense of sadness that their dreams had obviously not panned out due to isolation and drought. This sense was obviously not shared by the idiots who had chosen to graffiti their names all over this piece of history (unfortunately this is the case at all these sorts of sights in the Outback). We do enjoy walking around and seeing how people used to live in these remote areas such a long time ago. The stone chimney that still stands tall is a wonderful sight. Scattered around the place are pieces of old machinery and the shell of an extremely old car filled with bullet holes as it must have been used as target practice by some of the locals. Be super careful when walking and driving around in this area as it is littered with broken glass, metal, and barb wire. A lot of people do find camp along the creek near the ruins if you are looking for somewhere to setup camp in this area.
After a good look around the ruins we continued our slow and bumpy journey along Cordillo Downs Road towards Cordillo Downs Woolshed.
Cordillo Downs Woolshed
From the ruins it is approximately 85kms to Cordillo Downs Woolshed. The road only gets worse from the ruins. Expect this leg of the journey to take 2 hours. You cross many creek beds that are filled with rocks to reduce the chance of getting bogged when there are abnormal rains. The tracks into and across these creeks have washouts and hard to see holes in many places so make sure you slow right down when approaching and driving through these areas.
As you approach Cordillo Downs Woolshed you will come upon gates on either side. You are not allowed to camp anywhere between these two gates (for 15kms) which is well signposted by the station owners. As always, shut the gate when passing through. Not far after the gate you come onto Cordillo Downs Woolshed which is easily noticeable due to its shape and size sitting in its vast flat surroundings. The woolshed is heritage listed and is slowly being brought back to life by the current station owners. This was Australia’s largest woolshed where 85,000 sheep were sheared in the 1880’s. The station owners still allow access to the Cordillo Downs Station woolshed but remember that this is a private property so follow the instructions on the signs and please be respectful. We chose to have lunch here while enjoying the view of the old beaten down truck lying in front of the massive woolshed with the dunes in the distance of the Sturt Stony Desert. We also took the time to enjoy being bump free before we continued our journey on to Innamincka.
Innamincka Regional Reserve
When leaving Cordillo Downs Woolshed, the landscape is scattered with more sand dunes in the distance. The dunes start to glow bright red with the mid-afternoon sun slowly descending. A nice change to the bumpy journey. The closer we came to Innamincka Regional Reserve the better the road became. It was approximately 175kms from the Queensland South Australia border when the road conditions improved considerably. Here we came to a T junction where Cordillo Downs Road meets Arrabury Road. We turned right and not long after entered Innamincka Regional Reserve which is signposted. The road here is sandy and dusty but easy going. It can be a bit windy (not breezy but winding) in places and it is difficult to see around the bends. As the road is narrow slow down and be careful as there can be others coming the other way. Innamincka Regional Reserve is filled with cattle properties so be aware as there will be cattle on or just off the road. It should take about an hour and a half from the Arrabury Road junction to get to Innamincka.
Took Us One Day
From Birdsville to Innamincka along Cordillo Downs Road we had planned to take two days based on our initial research. Our original plan was to camp somewhere along Cordillo Downs Road after the woolshed, beside a sand dune or along one of the many low creeks. However, even though the road conditions were extremely rough and slow going, we found that we came into Innamincka Regional Reserve just after 4pm. So, we decided to continue to Innamincka and find camp along Cooper Creek. We left Birdsville at around 9am and made camp at Cooper Creek at 5.30pm. The total trip took eight and a half hours to complete with stops at the ruins and the woolshed. Total driving time was just under eight hours driving to the conditions.
If you are towing a large caravan, then expect your travel time to be longer and plan for two days. We could have taken it a bit slower and done this leg of our trip over two days, but we decided we would prefer to get more time around Innamincka and pushed on for an evening camp setup. If you take our recommendations above and detour to the Dreamtime Serpent and Betoota then you will need two days to complete the trip.
Drive to the Conditions
One thing that constantly frustrates us when we are driving in the Outback is how many people completely ignore the road conditions and don’t follow outback road etiquette. Especially now that there are many people exploring the Outback for the first time because of the new Covid world we now live in. If you are planning on travelling to the Outback for the first time, please adhere to outback road etiquette. This mean that when you see another vehicle coming in the opposite direction, slow right down and keep as far left of the road where it is safe to do so. This helps reduce the amount of dust as well as significantly reducing the amount of gravel thrown up by your tyres. In the last 12 months we have cracked and replaced two windscreens from passing vehicles not slowing down. When the road deteriorates, slow down. There is no point rushing and not making your destination due to breaking something or worse, injuring yourself or others.
While driving Cordillo Downs Road we passed four other vehicles. The road was rocky and bumpy, one of the worst we have driven in some time. For 175kms from the South Australia border to Innamincka Regional Reserve, it was slow going between 50-60km/h. These three vehicles, two of them towing, drove passed us at what must have been 80km/h plus after we pulled over and stopped as the road was so narrow. There was no effort to slow down and the amount of dust and rocks that we were showed in was ridiculous and unnecessary. Please drive to the conditions and be thoughtful to other road users.
Summary of Cordillo Downs Road
In summary, Cordillo Downs Road is rough going but we really enjoyed the trip. If you are towing, you really should allow for two days to complete the trip between Birdsville and Innamincka. We did this in one full day, but it was a big day of driving. With the amount of rock on this road be careful as it will be easy to damage your vehicle or anything that you are towing. Make sure that all your gear is tightly secured as everything will be constantly vibrating and moving about. Watch out for holes and washouts especially while crossing creeks. Drive to the conditions and check to see if the road is closed as it usually is after abnormal heavy rains. There are plenty of places to camp just off the road beside creeks and sand dunes, just remember that you are unable to camp near the Cordillo Downs Woolshed which is well signed posted.
If you want to read our other Outback posts, you can find them all here. To keep up to date on our future stories and what we are up to, join the 4WD Adventurer Community here, and follow us on Instagram.
Thanks for reading.
The thoughts of Peter.
05/10/2023 @ 12:58 PM
really appreciate the write up thank you.
16/10/2023 @ 9:19 AM
G’day Dave
Thanks for the feedback and reading mate. Much appreciated and safe travels.
Cheers
Peter
26/07/2023 @ 4:42 PM
4WD Adventurer
Fabulous informative 4WD information.
Keep up the excellent work.
David
08/08/2023 @ 5:08 PM
G’day Dave,
Thanks for the feedback and support mate, much appreciated.
Enjoy your travels and keep safe.
Cheers,
Peter