Hell Hole Gorge National Park: A Remote Outback Gem with a Dark Past
In this short guide to Hell Hole Gorge National Park in Queensland’s remote southwest, you will discover stunning gorges, the wildlife, 4WD access, camping, and the haunting history of a frontier massacre.
Quick Summary: Key Things to Know Before You Go
- Location: 69 km from Adavale, QLD.
- Access: 4WD only; roads impassable when wet.
- Main Features: Spencers Waterhole – spectacular gorge near park entrance. Hell Hole Waterhole – 7.5 km from park entrance. Powell Creek drainage system – rugged gullies and seasonal cascades.
- Camping: Powell Creek camping area, book through Qld Parks, no facilities; large open area near Hell Hole Waterhole (follow rock markers across Powell Creek).
- Best Time to Visit: Winter to early spring (cooler temps, fewer flies).
- Wildlife: Krefft’s river turtles, yellow-footed rock-wallabies, spinifex pigeons, cockatoos.
- Must-Do: Walk to Spencers Waterhole lookout. Explore gullies and waterholes.
- Nearby Stop: Adavale – quirky town with a patisserie and historic jail.
- Safety: Watch for steep cliffs, submerged objects in waterholes, and flooding hazards in rains.
- History: Site of a tragic 1872 frontier massacre – see full story below.
- Bring: Plenty of water, camp toilet, and all other supplies.
And always remember, respect our land. Whatever goes in with you, must come back out with you. Leave no trace!
Getting There: The Road Less Travelled
Hell Hole Gorge is located about 69 km from Adavale (takes less than an hour), and the drive in is part of the adventure. From Charleville or Quilpie, head to Adavale, then follow the Adavale-Blackall Road, turning onto Milo-Gooyea Road to reach the park. The road was in good condition when we visited, graded gravel and well signposted, but it’s strictly 4WD only, and impassable when wet.
- Turn Off Just After Quilpie Going to Adavale
- Well Sign Posted
- Hell Hole Gorge Park Entrance
- National Park Signage
We stopped in Adavale to check out the old hall/info centre and the historic jail cell. While there, we bumped into some caravaners from Melbourne who asked, “You’re camping at Hell Hole? Do you know what happened there?”
- Signs at Adavale Information Centre
- Adavale Police Museum
- "I'm sorry sir!"
Spencers Waterhole
Our first stop inside the park was Spencers Waterhole, the main gorge and a jaw-dropping sight. Towering sandstone walls, carved by time and water, surrounded a deep pool teeming with Krefft’s river turtles. The colours and contours of the rock were incredible; reds, oranges, and ochres layered like a geological cake.
We spent a good 90 minutes walking around, soaking it all in. The trees inside the gorge were massive, and the place had a stillness that made you stop and think. It’s beautiful, yes, but there’s a darkness here too.
A Dark Chapter: The Massacre of 1872
Hell Hole Gorge isn’t just a stunning natural escape, there are also stories of a frontier massacre that occurred in 1872, following the death of Richard Welford, a pastoralist who had established a grazing station nearby. Originally named Walton, the property was renamed Welford Downs after his death, and today forms part of Welford National Park, a protected area preserving the region’s biodiversity and history (1). Another beautiful Outback National Park we would recommend stopping in if you are ever driving past.
The story goes that, Welford and his stockman were killed by Aboriginal people resisting the encroachment on their land. In response, Native Police detachments, along with local settlers, launched punitive expeditions across the region. Oral histories suggest that Aboriginal people were rounded up and shot, with some bodies allegedly thrown into the gorge itself (2). The violence extended along the Barcoo River and into the Cheviot Range, which includes the area now protected as Hell Hole Gorge National Park (3).
While exact numbers remain unknown, it forms part of the darker side of Queensland’s frontier history. The silence of the gorge today is haunting, not just for its natural stillness, but for the stories it holds.
We have included footnotes at the end of this post for futher information on the above referenced as 1-3.
Wildlife and Walks
Hell Hole Gorge is a haven for wildlife. We spotted spinifex pigeons, and lizards basking in the sun before slipping into shady crevices. Spring brings bursts of wildflowers among the sparse mulga scrub, and if you’re lucky, you might glimpse yellow-footed rock-wallabies bounding up rocky ridges or hear red-tailed black cockatoos squawking in the trees (we were not).
There are several walking tracks, including one leading to a lookout above Spencers Waterhole. The terrain is deceptively rugged, so be extremely cautious near cliff edges.
Camping in the Gorge (Powell Creek Camping Area): Solitude and Flies
The road to Powell Creek camping area was just as good, another dry creek crossing, then into a wide-open area surrounded by mulga scrub. The camping area near Hell Hole Waterhole is massive, with plenty of spots to choose from. We picked a flat rock shelf near a smaller gorge and set up camp. Had to use rocks for swag pegs as we weren’t getting anything into that rock, one of those classic Outback improvisations.
We cooled off after a big day of driving and exploring by having a small paddle in one of the rock pools in front of our camp. The flies? Absolutely horrendous. Easily the worst we had all trip. But once they disappeared with the sun, we got the fire going and cooked up a solid feed: Roosterkoek (damper bread rolls), steak, and corn kernels straight from the tin. Simple, hearty, and perfect after a good day of exploring.
Later, Dad and I sat by the fire and had one of those long, meandering yarns, this one about Rhodesia, war, and the why of it all. It’s moments like that which make these trips more than just sightseeing.
Exploring Hell Hole Waterhole Near Camp
We were up before 6am, packed the swags before the flies returned (they were back by 7), and brewed some coffee.
Before leaving, we walked down to Hell Hole Waterhole a 1.2km return walk, a smaller but equally stunning sandstone chasm. More turtles, more colours, more silence. You simply follow the markers and discover more gorges and billabongs along the way.
Then it was time to hit the road.
- Parks Sign to Hell Hole Waterhole
- One of the Small Gorges on the Walk
- Hell Hole Waterhole
- A Small Billabong Near Hell Hole Waterhole
Back to Adavale: Coffee and Cheesecake?
On the way out, we spotted heaps of kangaroos and even a lone dingo. Back in Adavale, we stumbled across a patisserie, yes, really. Coffee and cheesecake in the middle of nowhere. Pricey, but worth it to support the locals. We ended up chatting with the same campers we met from Hell Hole who’d pulled in after seeing the sign. They wanted a look at our setup, and we didn’t leave until well after 10.
Final Thoughts
Hell Hole Gorge National Park is a place of contrasts; stunning natural beauty paired with a tragic past. It’s remote, raw, and real. If you’re heading through western Queensland and want to get off the beaten track, this one’s worth the detour.
Just bring a fly net when it is warm. Trust me.
Thanks for reading this short guide to Hell Hole Gorge National Park. For more stories on other great locations you can visit, find them all here.
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The thoughts of Peter
