DIY 70 Series Land Cruiser Centre Console with Fridge – Full Build Post Including Upholstery
DIY 70 Series Land Cruiser Centre Console with Fridge
If you own a 70 Series Land Cruiser, you already know the factory centre console isn’t exactly the highlight of the cabin. Aftermarket options look tidy but they’re expensive: think around $1,300 for a full-length console and $1,900–$2,300 when bundled with a Bushman console fridge. That just didn’t align with why I chose a 70 Series in the first place. I didn’t buy a 70 for a plush interior, I bought it for reliability, ruggedness, and the joy of making it my own.
So, I built my own DIY 70 Series centre console with an integrated 70 Series fridge console for less than $500 including the fridge, and roughly $80 out of pocket for materials I didn’t already have. Most importantly, I took my time to get the finish right, especially the upholstery, so it looks professional without the premium price tag.
Below is the complete process: planning, templating, building, mounting, and a deep dive on the upholstery that makes this 70 Series Land Cruiser centre console look like it belongs in the cabin.
Why I Built a DIY Centre Console
A mate running a 79 Series had a console fridge fitted, and on a long desert run he was grabbing iced coffees and cold drinks without stopping, while I had to pull over and rummage in the rear fridge. That was the moment: I knew I wanted a fridge between the seats for daily convenience and big-mile touring. Plus the added benefit of having the option to use this console fridge as a freezer if I ever needed to. But I also like spending hours in the shed, and I didn’t feel comfortable dropping two grand on something I could fabricate for a fraction – well initially I wasn’t sure if I could get something to look good, so this post will show you how I made mine.
This project was about function, fit, and finish, done my way, for my 76 Series, and built to handle corrugations without rattles.
Budget & Materials
I had plenty of leftover 12mm plywood, plus consumables like screws, wood glue, staples, aluminium flat bar, carpet, and 12V components. What was needed for this project is listed below and rough pricing if you are interested in going down this path.
- 12mm plywood (1200 × 600) – $36
- Vinyl from Spotlight (Zephyr: Grey & Black) – $40 (sale)
- Upholstery foam from Spotlight – $20
- Boat cup holders from Amazon (pack of 4, used 2) – $18 (so $9 for the pair)
- Plastic PVC plaster angle trim from Bunnings – $6
- Staples – $5
- Wood glue – $7
- Aluminium flat bar (1.8mm and 5mm) – $20
- Speaker box carpet (Clark Rubber matches Drifta drawers) – $20
- Needle & thread from Spotlight – $10
- Brass Monkey console fridge (Jaycar) – $399
Total materials if buying everything: ~$180 + $399 for the fridge.
My actual out-of-pocket costs (using shed stock): ~$80 + the fridge.
Design Goals (Function First)
What I wanted from this DIY 70 Series centre console:
- Two large cup holders that suit larger bottles and cans in stubby coolers.
- Phone storage plus a small catch-all compartment.
- Switch/output panel for 12V USB and UHF handheld connection.
- RAM mount for iPad (navigation) positioned lower to keep the windscreen clear and out of the sun.
- Integrated console fridge with a secure, level base and solid mounts.
- A factory-looking finish: two-tone vinyl (black top, grey sides) to match the dash and trims.
I also wanted to avoid lowering the panel around the transfer case selector (as many aftermarket consoles do). That choice was to make fabrication easier but did end up adding a bit more thought around clearances and having to acquire an aftermarket extended handle to be able to get into 4WD low.
Step 1: Planning & Templates (Cardboard Templates are King)
I started with a rough sketch, but shapes and angles in the 70 Series cabin are easier solved with cardboard than a ruler. I used Ram Board (the heavy-duty floor protection stuff) to make templates.
I highly recommend using this product you can get from Bunnings, pre-cutting and storing flat for any time you need to template something.
Started with the top panel template:
- Cut a blank to cover the span from the dash plastics to the raised lip on the floor.
- Marked and cutout for the gear stick and transfer case selector.
- Tested all ranges of motion, for clearances and made minor adjustments, larger adjustments could be made later with the plywood.
- The transfer case lever sits lower than the gear stick, so this area needed extra thought – I winged this a bit and adjusted later.
Once satisfied, I transferred the template to 12mm plywood and cut the top with a jigsaw.
- Using Cardboard as a Template
- Easy to Get Angles Using Template
- Measurements on Cardboard Template
- Template Transferred to 12mm Plywood
Step 2: Building the Main Console
With the top panel cut, I fabricated the sides and internal supports. To do this, I fitted the top panel in the vehicle, and using supports underneath, was able to get the top sitting at the correct height and level. From here I was able to slowly measure the sides of the console, determine clearances, and slowly cut and put in place. I worked slowly from the front dash to the rear.
- Dry assembly first: I screwed panels together without glue so I could make changes without committing.
- Trim for clearance: Inside corners got spot trims where bolts and factory brackets would otherwise clash.
- Rear section left for later: I knew the fridge integration would set the final dimensions, so I paused that area.
Only when the overall fit looked good did I disassemble, apply wood glue at all joins, and re-screw. The console structure became strong and creak-free.
Step 3: Fridge Base & Mounting
The 70’s floor is not flat. To mount the Brass Monkey console fridge this is what had to be done.
- Templated a sloped base in 12mm ply so the top of the base is level.
- Re-used factory mounting points from the OEM console where possible.
- Added rear supports tied into my rear seat conversion for a strong base.
- Carpeted the base in speaker box carpet (matches my Drifta drawers and stops squeaks).
- Mounted the fridge to the base first, then installed in the vehicle.
With the fridge installed, I could precisely finalise the console as I now knew my clearances.
Ventilation is important: with the fan of the Brass Monkey console fridge being located at the front bottom of the fridge, I allowed for a bit of space between the fridge and console for better airflow.
Step 4: Joining the Sections (Dowels for Alignment)
With the fridge fully mounted, I measured the gap and cut the rear connector pieces (three small ply sections). I joined them to the main console using wooden dowels. The join wasn’t perfectly seamless, but that’s fine. A little sanding and the later vinyl work would make it look cohesive.
- Plywood Console Glued & Screwed
- Plywood Console Glued & Screwed
- Test Fitting Plywood Console for Clearances
Step 5: Storage Cutouts & RAM Mount Platform
Before figuring out final mounting points, I laid out all the function:
- Two large cup holder cutouts (checked with actual cup holders).
- Phone slot (deep enough to hold phones upright without rattling).
- Small catch-all compartment for keys, and odds and ends.
- Flat platform area for the RAM mount base. Importantly, this sits above an area related to airbags, so I avoided any cutouts here.
If I miscut (I did, a couple of times as it is not easy getting your dimensions spot on when things are concealed beneath the console plywood), I glued in filler ply and trimmed flush. Vinyl hides that later.
- Wokring Out Storage & Cup Holder Cutouts
- Cutouts Completed
- Final Test Fit With Cutouts
Step 6: Mounting the Console (Three Solid Points)
This was a time-consuming part trying to work out the best spots for mounting the console. I used three mounting points for a rock-solid install:
Factory console mount (rear area):
- Visible through the rear cup holder cutout.
- I fabricated an L bracket from 5mm aluminium flat bar.
- The factory mount is M6 threaded; I bolted the bracket there, then to the console side.
- Factory Centre Console Threaded Mount
- Rear Mount Using Custom L Bracket
- Custom L Bracket Fitted to Console
Lip near the handbrake:
- Under the carpet there are two holes in the raised lip.
- I set nutserts (rivnuts) for a threaded insert in the hole closer to the passenger side.
- I added a small ply crosspiece under the console, drilled, then bolted through into the nutsert.
Threaded hole that supported the factory bracket that held the plastic trims for the cupholder:
- This was tricky because of depth and alignment.
- I made a C/U shaped custom bracket using flat aluminium bar with a nutsert on top and a through-hole on the bottom.
- The bottom fastened into the vehicle’s threaded hole; the top met a hole in my shallow front compartment floor.
- That let me tighten a bolt from above and pull everything together.
- I covered this bolt with a loose piece of speaker box carpet to hide this but can easily be removed when you need to access this bolt.
Once tightened, the console was immovable. That’s exactly what you want, no squeak or rattles, no flex, no movement on corrugations.
Rattle-proofing tip: Anywhere wood or metal meets the body, add a thin strip of felt tape or foam tape. It prevents squeaks and protects paint.
- Nutsert Installed in Lip Near Handbrake
- Centre Mount Using Installed Nutsert
- Custom C Bracket to Secure Front of Console
- Front Console Bolt Hole in Small Storage Compartment
Step 7: Switch/Output Panel & Wiring
I made a compact switch/output panel using 1.8mm aluminium flat bar:
- Drilled three holes with a hole saw.
- Covered the face in black vinyl using spray adhesive.
- Screwed it into a pre-cut recess so the outlet backs have depth to sit cleanly.
What I wired in:
- Double USB outlet (wired to the factory 12V wiring that used to power the cigarette socket beside the factory cup holder).
- UHF mic / handheld connector running to my GME unit behind the glovebox, allowing me to plug in the handpiece only when needed and stash it when not. You can see how I fitted my GME unit behind the glovebox here.
- I have one provision in the centre of this panel that I can use later for a switch or something else if I ever need this. I left this covered in vinyl for now and can cutout if I ever need to use this.
Upholstery Masterclass (The Part That Makes It Look Pro)
This is the section that separates a DIY-looking console from a factory-looking 70 Series Land Cruiser centre console. Done right, the upholstery elevates the whole build. I might be biased on my assessment here, but you can see the results below, so let me know what you think in the comments below.
Materials & Tools I Used
- Upholstery foam (I used a medium density; thickness around 6–10 mm works great for consoles).
- Automotive-grade vinyl: Black for the top, Grey for the sides (matches the 70’s interior well).
- Spray adhesive.
- Plastic PVC angle/plaster trim (lightweight, straight, perfect edge former).
- Staple gun with 6–10 mm staples.
- Sharp blades (change often), fabric scissors, and a heat gun or hair dryer.
- Sewing kit (for gear lever boots and if you decide to top-stitch panels).
Prep Work: Sanding & Edge Softening
- Round every edge. Vinyl hates sharp corners and will show every ridge.
- 2–3 mm radius is enough on outside edges; inside corners just break the edge.
- Sand the plywood to remove any imperfections that might show through the foam and vinyl – minor imperfections will not show.
Foam Layer (Comfort & Soft Edges)
- Spray both surfaces with adhesive (foam and wood), let it go tacky, then lay the foam.
- I started with the top only: cover completely, then cut small slits to fold foam neatly into cutouts.
- Let the foam run 20–25 mm down the sides to soften the transition later.
- Press firmly to bond. If you get bubbles, lift gently while warm and re-lay. You can use a heat gun here to make this easier as the foam can easily tear and a little heat will allow you to re-lay the foam a bit easier.
Top tip: lay the foam on a flat surface with adhesive side facing up, then lay the top of the console on to the foam, this works perfectly every time.
- Spray Adhesive Applied to Foam and Plywood Console
- Foam Applied to Top of Plywood Console
- Foam Cut and Folded Inside Cutouts
Two-Tone Look (Black Top, Grey Sides)
I wanted the top black to match the centre dash and the sides grey to match the door cards and trims, and to tie in with the black Brass Monkey fridge. Two-tone looks “factory” but it’s less forgiving. Here’s the approach that worked for me.
Top first (black):
- Lay the vinyl over the top, centre it, and gently warm (don’t scorch) with a heat gun to gain stretch if required in those finicky spots.
- Staple underneath the top edge on the vertical faces; these staples will be hidden later by the grey sides.
- Work slowly and evenly from the centre outward to avoid biasing the stretch.
- For cutouts: make tiny radial relief cuts (think spokes of a wheel), fold down, and staple neatly on the underside.
- Keep your cuts short so you don’t expose wood at the corners.
- Lay Black Vinyl Over Top Console
- Staple Black VinlyJust Below Topside
- Vinyl Cutouts Completed
Edge perfection without sewing:
- This is where the PVC plaster trim is magic. Cut the angled PVC to produce a neat, flat strip. I used a box cutter with a sharp blade to do this.
- For each cutout (phone tray, catch-all), measure the internal dimensions of the cutout and cut the plastic strip to match. Then using some offcut vinyl, staple a this to the underside of the console upside down, fold it up through the opening, sit the PVC strip along the edge so its top aligns with the console surface, and staple the PVC inside the cavity.
- Fold the vinyl back over the PVC and staple underneath.
- Result: a crisp, straight, “moulded” edge without topstitching. It’s a simple technique that looks professional.
- Checking PVC Trim Cut to Correct Length
- Installing PVC Trim with Vinyl
- Folding Black Vinyl Over PVC Trim
- Vinyl Folded Over PVC Trim
- Perfect Seamless Edge
- Storage Compartment Clean Edges
Sides second (grey):
- Dry-fit the grey panels to judge where the seam line will sit against the black top.
- Staple the grey on the side (upside down as this will fold over), then use the PVC strip trick to establish a perfectly straight seam line where grey meets black at the top of the console.
- Before folding the grey vinyl over the PVC, add foam to the sides using spray adhesive. The foam will help soften the PVC and hide any of the staples.
- Once the PVC is stapled and the foam has been stuck to the sides, fold the grey over the PVC edge toward the underside.
- Work from the middle toward the corners, warming the vinyl to ease around compound curves. Pull and staple behind the console. If you have any imperfections, you can easily remove the staples and tidy up.
Heat & Stretch: Warmth lets vinyl flow. For outside corners, stretch gradually from multiple directions. For inside corners, cut minimal relief slits on the hidden side only.
- PVC Strip & Grey Vinyl Driver Side
- PVC Strip Stapled to Top Edge
- PVC Strip & Grey Vinyl Passenger Side
- Foam Applied to Sides with Spray Adhesive
- Fold Grey Vinly Over PVC Strip for Perfect Edge
- Two-tone Finish
Tight Spots, Curves & Corners
- Outside corners: Pre-round with the sander, warm the vinyl, and “walk” the stretch from the broad face toward the corner. Don’t yank, coax it.
- Inside corners: Only slit enough to let the vinyl fold without wrinkling. Keep slits short so the top edge never shows a cut.
- Rework: If a section looks wavy, lift while warm and reset. Staples are easy to remove out of plywood with a flat head screw driver and some pliers.
Cup Holders
- Because cup holders have their own flange, you don’t need to trim those openings with PVC.
Lining Compartments
- I lined the storage compartments with speaker box carpet after finishing the vinyl edges.
- It provides grip, hides contents, and acts as a noise damper.
- This style of carpet is easy to work with, simple to cut and it is thin so folds over edges easily as it has no rubber backing like marine carpet.
- Use contact adhesive for a permanent fit.
- Front Small Storage Compartment
- Centre Deep Phone Storage Compartment
- Cup Holders Fitted
Gear Stick & Transfer Case Selector Covers (Sewing Without Tears)
I tried to avoid sewing, but to get a tidy finish around the levers you’ll want at least simple boots.
Gear Stick Boot (Cone Pattern):
- Template in cardboard first. Masking tape joins help you visualise shape and seams.
- Transfer to vinyl and add seam allowance (6–10 mm) where you will sew.
- Sew inside-out, then turn it right-side out so the seam sits crisp on the outside.
- I used red top-stitch to echo the Brass Monkey’s red accents, looks ok but in hindsight I should have just done this in black thread as it hides imperfections better.
- Fit to the console opening using the PVC strip and staple method from the inside (see photos).
- Hand-sewn Gear Stick Boot Inside
- Gear Stick Boot Stitching
- Custom Gear Stick Boot Fitted to Console
- Gear Stick Boot Installed
Transfer Case Cover (Two-Piece Slit):
- I made two rectangular pieces with folded and stitched edges, then bridged them at the ends, leaving a slit in the middle for lever movement.
- It’s simpler than a full boot, looks neat, and works well because the transfer lever travels in a defined arc.
- I also fitted an extended transfer case knob (cheap aftermarket) to give extra height for selecting 4WD low without fouling the console. Long term I’ll make a custom knob extension and match the gear stick with a leather knob option.
- Hand-sewn Transfer Case Selector Cover
- PVC Strip Used for Installing Cover
- Transfer Case Selector Cover Installed
- Hand-sewn Cover in the Vehicle
Final Assembly & Touches
- RAM ball mount: Mounted low on the flat reinforced section so the iPad sits away from the windscreen, better for summer heat and line of sight.
- Custom logo: A fun finish that ties in with our 76AUS plates.
- Fridge console cushion: The Brass Monkey’s wireless charging recess is, frankly, wasted space for me. I made a custom EVA foam insert wrapped in black vinyl to improve the elbow rest.
- RAM Mount for iPad
- iPad on RAM Mount & Custom Logo
- Brass Monkey Fridge
- Custom Cushion for Added Elbow Comfort
Time, Difficulty & What I’d Do Differently
- Time: If you’re fastidious (and you should be), expect a few full days spread over a couple of weekends. Mounting and upholstery consume the most time. Hopefully these tips will save you time.
- Difficulty: Intermediate. Woodwork is straightforward; bracket fabrication and upholstery require patience.
- Do differently next time:
- Use the heat gun more often while wrapping tight corners.
- Spend more time on the angles as a few sections just don’t look right to me.
- Stick with black thread on the gear boot unless I’m doing truly perfect topstitching.
Costs vs Aftermarket Options
- Aftermarket: $1,300+ for a centre console, $1,900–$2,300 with a compatible fridge package.
- DIY (my build): ~$180 in materials if you’re starting from scratch + $399 for the Brass Monkey console fridge.
- My actual outlay was ~$80 for materials because I had ply, glue, staples, and aluminium on hand.
Even if you had to buy everything, you’d be comfortably under $600 all-in. The trade-off is time, but if you enjoy building, it’s time well spent and you end up with a 70 Series fridge console that’s customised for how you travel and it will be one of a kind.
Final Verdict: Would I Do It Again?
Would I do this again?
Absolutely, but only if I had the time again. This wasn’t a quick afternoon project. Although I learnt a lot doing this, so next time I could probably do it in a fraction of the time. There’s a lot of trial, measurement, and fine-tuning involved, particularly around the gearbox area and the mounting brackets. But the result is exactly what I wanted: a DIY 70 Series Land Cruiser centre console with a fridge that looks tidy, feels solid, and works brilliantly on long drives.
Having a cold drink within arm’s reach is fantastic. Plus the option of a small freezer if we need one. The extra storage is spot-on, the RAM-mounted iPad lives where it should, and the two-tone vinyl makes it look like it belongs in the 70 Series. The Brass Monkey console fridge has been excellent so far; I’ll publish a detailed review after more trips.
Would I buy an aftermarket unit now? Personally, no. For me, $2k+ is better spent on fuel for the next adventure. But you do you, if time is tight and budget isn’t, the aftermarket options are well built and look the part. If you’ve got the tools and patience, though, this is a rewarding project that saves serious dollars and lets you tailor every detail.
If I did not have the time or skills to do what I had done, then I would just run with what I had before. You can read the post here for more details, but this was simple, cost effective, and worked well on all our big trips. Maybe adding in the fridge console would be something I would add to that simple solution as that part of this build was straightforward.
I hope you found this post helpful, let me know your thoughts in the comments below. If you have any questions on this DIY centre console with fridge for our 70 Series Land Cruiser, then ask them below.
Thanks for reading. For more 4WD build stories, you can find them all here. To keep up to date on future posts, join the 4WD Adventurer Community here.
The thoughts of Peter.
